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C/O Tom and Kaye Assenmacher
Box 32, Kinsale, VA 22488
EMAIL: a37ioa@sylvaninfo.net

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1 April 1993


Associate member, RANDY WHITNEY writes that they are still looking for an A-37 to purchase. You might contact Neil Baylie, as he may still have RAPCU for sale.

STEVE AND BRENDA COOPER (SOJOURN) write of their future cruising plans. They intend to depart on an extended cruise this fall to Mexico, Costa Rica, South Pacific etc....... We'll be looking forward to hearing from you, drop a postcard once in awhile!

JACK LACKNER (CANADA GOOSE) writes from Malaga, Spain that he is preparing his boat for an Atlantic crossing hopefully this summer. (Not quite sure if he has CANADA GOOSE with him in Spain, or whether he plans to take his boat to Spain). Jack had a question about the hull ID numbers on his boat, (ZWB372020579). The ZWB stands for Whitby Boat Works, the 37 means 37 feet, the next 3 numbers, (202), is the Hull #, and the last 4, (0579) mean the boat was built in May, 1979.

Jack also enclosed an interesting description of the village in Spain where he lives (near Gibraltar). We would like to have an account of your Atlantic crossing when you complete the voyage!

Welcome aboard to new member, JACQUES BERNIER, of Cantley, Quebec. We need your hull number, boat name and boat location to fill out our roster.

MIKE HUGHES (MARYNYA) writes from Jacksonville Florida, that he is in the midst of a major refit and trying to get the money together for cruising this fall. Good luck. Mike has also contributed an article concerning the restoration of wood hatch inserts which is included in this newsletter.

New members, LOIS JACOB & MERLE GALBRAITH, JR. (INTERLUDE #225), write from Latitude 10040'N, 61035'W (Port of Spain, Trinidad, West Indies). They report that Interlude was launched in 1982 and was sailed weekends and vacations on the Great Lakes (North Cape Y.C.) and in September 1985, they departed for the Caribbean where they have been ever since. The are the original owners and "still in love" with Interlude, though at times wish she was a bit larger inside.

CASE KERKSTRA and his wife, who sail their A-37 sloop out of Muskegon Mi., have changed the interior to make it more roomy and comfortable. They have 2 pull-out bunks in the main cabin, and have eliminated the pilot berths, replacing them with a book and TV shelf on the port, and a "junk bin" on the starboard (they still can accommodate with the pull out arrangement). Case is planning rewire the boat and is considering replacing the original Atomic Four with a suitable diesel, and is desirous of hearing from any members who have repowered. (Off hand, I know that Gerry Warwick and several others have successfully gone through this drill). Although Case and his wife have done all of their cruising in the Lake Michigan Green Bay area and the Lake Huron, North Channel area, they plan to leave this area in a few years for some ocean cruising. (How about sharing with us an article on one of your favorite cruising areas?) Case, we still need to know the name of your boat.

JOHN BAX (IMMUNITY) writes that he hopes to be back in the water in April, ready for the new sailing season. Thanks for responding directly to several members who requested information which was listed in the recent newsletter.

I think this is one of the best reasons to have a newsletter. John relates that after a 3 month effort of gathering prop information, he has finally decided that the correct prop (with 4-107 with a direct drive transmission)is 12 X 8 3 bladed prop is correct for this setup, which gives him hull speed with little or no cavitation. John also sent several excellent photos of Immunity which now reside in the new A-37 album.

ROLAND AND DANIELLE POOTMANS (LANIKAI) report that instead of overhauling their old VOLVO engine (too expensive) they plan to re-engine using a new VOLVO 2003. Roland also has written regarding several useful projects he has completed on LANIKAI:

"One solution for the leaking anti-siphon valve-drill and solder a 1/8"copper tubing into the nut on the valve and route the tubing to the starboard cockpit drain spigot. Drill a 1/8" hole and epoxy the tube so it protrudes slightly into the drain. Therefore, no water below, and a glance down the drain will ensure the water pump is working!"

"I also designed a cockpit table (24"x30"x1/2" acrylic). I drilled and tapped two holes in the traveller and the aft end of the table is held by the wing nuts into the traveller.

With one center leg forward, you have a very solid table. Remove the leg and two bolts and store the table in the cockpit locker. Limit the table to 30" for ease of storage".

"A nice improvement in the quarter-berth is an opening port into the cockpit. Added light and air makes for improvement. Whitby did offer it as an option after seeing my modification. I also bonded some pine boards over the fiberglass to finish off the aft end of the quarter berth. I have made a chart stowage area and some small cupboards in the teak plywood outboard of the quarter berth. All the electronics are 'Built In' recessed above the chart table". Thanks for the good projects.


 PETER and SUSAN BOYADJIAN have made a most useful improvement in INIA which consists of cutting out of an engine compartment panel in the recess at the after end of the quarterberth, allowing access to the stuffing box, steering mechanism, and engine rear. Before, they had to remove the galley sink counter and indulge in contortions to get to the after end of the engine. Also, when INIA went hard astern, water was driven up into the galley sink, overflowing onto the counter (we've had this happen too) and finding its way into the ice box. They found a sink plug, called a "hot water saver" plug, which, when screwed down, prevents water access into the sink. The device was purchased at a hardware store for approximately $12, and saved them a lot of annoyance.

 Restoring Wood Hatch Inserts
By Mike Hughes

Marynya (hull 123, 1973) has teak plywood inserts in her cockpit seat hatches, main sliding hatch and lazarette hatch. These were originally varnished but had been painted white by the time I bought her. The cockpit seat hatches were badly rotted as a result of water penetration around the edges of the plywood, but the other hatches appeared to be in fairly good condition. I decided to restore the cockpit seats with solid teak planking and refinish the others. The results look good and have endured for some months now, so the project can probably be considered a success.

Begin by knocking out all the rotted wood with a chisel. It is quite difficult to penetrate sound wood, while the damaged wood flakes out easily. Then clamp a 1 x 2 batten lengthwise across the hatch lid and use a router to plane the entire surface down 1/4". The batten is positioned so that the router base can be slid along it to cut a 1/4" deep groove in the plywood all the way down one edge. The batten is then moved a little less than the diameter of the router bit and another pass is made to widen the groove. This is repeated over the entire surface. It isn't a critical process except that you have to avoid chipping the edges of the fiberglass by stopping a little short of the edge. Final trimming is done with a small chisel.

If large chunks of rotted wood were removed, cut pieces of 1/2" plywood or other scrap material to fill in the bigger holes. These pieces do not have to fit at all tightly, they just fill in most of the space to give an even surface for the teak planking to lie on. Leave these pieces loose for the moment. The new planking will be teak slats about 2" wide and 1/4" thick. These can be ripped from lumber on a table saw but hire the job unless you are good at it. The pieces have to be even and smooth. Don't bother to plane or sand them, however. Trim them to lie on top of the routed out plywood surface with 1/8" gaps between them and all around the edges. They should sit just a hair above the surrounding fiberglass. Some of the pieces have to be tapered to match the shape of the opening. Ideally, the short pieces should be notched into the longer pieces to maintain a constant width gap between them. See the way the teak strips are laid under the cockpit winches. This is a lot of work, however, and I didn't do it. I just cut the tip off the pointed ends and left a larger gap at this point. It isn't quite as good looking, but it isn't bad.

Scrub the plywood surface and the undersides of the slats with acetone or lacquer-thinner to remove surface oil from the wood. Mix epoxy resin and hardener, stir well and thin with an equal volume of acetone or lacquer thinner. Use a cheap bristle brush to paint the plywood, the exposed fiberglass around it and the undersides of the slats with this mixture. Be sure to saturate the area around the edges of the plywood to seal out any moisture. Let this epoxy coating gel, but proceed while it is still tacky.

Mix a batch of epoxy and stir in enough Cabosil or other high-density filler to make a paste. Use a putty knife or plastic spreader to slather the plywood surface with this paste. If you are filling areas of rotten wood, glop the fiberglass or leftover plywood and then push the filler pieces into the paste. Plaster over them, filling the gaps between them with paste. Arrange the teak slats on top of the paste and push them in with your fingers. There should be enough paste to make contact all over the slats without squeezing up too much between them.

 Carefully lay pieces of lumber across the slats and put some weights on them to hold the slats in place. Make a final check to ensure that the gaps between the slats are all nice and even, then let the epoxy set up completely.

Now fill the gaps between the slats with black deck caulking. This is really the hardest part of the operation, but fortunately, you can just make a big mess of it. I used polysulfide caulk and I found Lifecaulk to be the easiest to work with. A polyurethane such as Sikkaflex might be even better, but make sure it is actually intended for decks. The trick is to fill the seams above the surface at all points. Cut the nozzle on a tube of caulk at an angle and a little wider than the seams. Hold the gun so that the opening is flat against the seam and centered on it. Pull the gun toward you and feed caulk so that the compound kind of rolls out a little ahead of the nozzle and bulges up behind.

The neater you do this, the less work you have to do later, but the important thing is to completely fill the seams. Glob it on as necessary. Let it set up for a week or more (it really takes that long). The hatches can be dropped back in place to keep rain out of the lockers.

Sand off the excess caulk. If you really gobbed it on, you can save some time by trimming off the excess with a sharp chisel. Hold it at angle to the seam. It is easy to gouge the wood, so if you have problems, forget it and sand. Use a finishing sander or random-orbit sander with 80 grit paper to get the caulking compound off and eliminate saw marks on the teak. Smooth with finer grit and finish with your favorite teak coating, vanish or oil. Since you are going to sand off the gel-coat on the glass around the insert, you might as well sand the whole thing and paint it. If you really don't want to do this, you might try protecting the fiberglass with duct tape.

If necessary, the other hatches could be treated in the same way, but the main hatch is a problem because of the curved surface. I would probably cut one edge of two or three pieces of 2x4 To match the curve of the hatch and use these to clamp the slats in place. I think the epoxy will hold them, but I wouldn't swear to it.

I chose to refinish the plywood on the other hatches, but I wanted to seal the edges against future water penetration. Before removing the paint, I used the same guide batten trick to route a groove around all four sides of the plywood insert to hold caulking compound between the plywood and the surrounding fiberglass. Then I got to looking at it and decided it would look better if it matched the new cockpit seats, so I also routed grooves running across the plywood in a fore and aft direction at about 2" intervals. This breaks the plywood surface up into fake 'planks". I painted all these grooves with thinned epoxy and caulked as above. When the caulk was set, I sanded off both the caulking compound and the paint. The veneer was thin and damaged in places but it didn't look too bad. I think that breaking the surface up with the caulking lines makes the defects less obvious.

I finished all the exterior teak on the boat with Marine Cetol which is in between a paint and a vanish. It doesn't look quite as good as varnish, but it isn't bad and it hides defects in the wood rather than accentuating them as varnish does. There are enough defects in the wood by this time for this hiding ability to be a considerable advantage!

Fair Winds!

by the Editor

For new members, I'm asking for $10.00 a year to cover costs of putting out a quarterly newsletter. I might suggest to our Canadian members that they send their dues either in U.S. currency or via a Canadian Postal Money Order payable in U.S. dollars. Unfortunately, in order to cash a check drawn on a Canadian bank (even if in U.S. funds), a $5.00 fee is charged. I've tried several banks, but the story is the same.

The purpose of the newsletter is to provide a vehicle for the exchange of ideas relating to our Alberg 37 experiences (good and bad), maintenance tips, cruising information and to maintain a roster of Alberg 37 owners.

Also, you should be aware of our group's agreement with BOAT U.S. whereby we get membership for half price as members of a cooperating group. Please mention that you are a member of the Alberg 37 Owners Group and include the Cooperating Group number GA 8325 S when you send in your membership dues. Also mention these items when renewing your membership, as we are required to have a certain percentage as BOAT U.S. members to qualify as a Cooperating Group.

If anyone wants some Boat U.S. literature, I can send you some.

Does anyone know the address/phone number of Kurt Hansen, the builder of all the Whitby Boatworks boats (A-30, A-37, Whitby 42, Whitby 45)? I would like to get in touch with him as a possible source of information of interest to all of us. Also, does anyone know how many A-37's were built, and what was the last hull number?


 STEVE AND BRENDA COOPER have a custom dodger for an Alberg 37. It's 2 years old, like new, and constructed of dark brown Sunbrella. They are selling it because they plan to replace it with a hard dodger in anticipation of their extended cruise. They are asking $250. Call or write Steve & Brenda Cooper, 6005 Gloria Dr, #19, Sacramento, CA. 95822. (916) 422-8234 after 5 PM (West Coast Time).

 ROLAND POOTMANS has a VOLVO MD-11C for sale which could be used for parts, transmission, starter etc. 598 Clarendon Crescent, Beaconsfield, Que. H9W 4O5 (514) 630-1994


CASE KERKSTRA is interested in purchasing a Hydrovane, windlass (2 speed manual) and a 4 man liferaft. 7083 Westwood Dr., Jenison MI. 49428 Ph. (616) 457-2958.



The following appeared in the Alberg 30 Newsletter, and thought it might be of interest to our members:

'The American Heart Association "Lose 10 Pounds in 3 Days" Diet.


Breakfast-Black coffee or tea, 1/2 grapefruit, 1 slice of toast, and 2 tablespoons peanutbutter.

Lunch-1/2 cup tuna, 1 slice toast, coffee or tea.

Dinner-2 slices any type meat (about 3 ozs.), 1 cup string beans, 1 cup beets, 1 small apple, 1 cup vanilla ice cream.


Breakfast-1 egg, 1/2 banana, 1 slice toast, black coffee or tea.

Lunch-1 cup cottage cheese, 5 saltine crackers.

Dinner-2 hot dogs, 1 cup broccoli, 1/2 cup carrots, 1/2 banana, 1/2 cup vanilla ice cream.


Breakfast-5 saltine crackers, 1 slice cheddar cheese, 1 small apple, black coffee or tea.

Lunch-1 hard boiled egg, 1 slice toast.

Dinner-1 cup tuna, 1 cup beets, 1 cup cauliflower, 1/2 cantaloupe, 1/2 cup vanilla ice cream.

The diet works on chemical breakdown and is proven. Do not vary or substitute any of the above foods. Salt and pepper may be used - no other seasonings. Where no quantity is given, there are no restrictions other than that of common sense. This diet is to be used three days at a time.

In three days, you will lose 10 lbs. After three days of dieting, you can eat normal food, but do not over do it. After four normal days of eating, start back on your three day diet. DO NOT SNACK BETWEEN MEALS!'

Kaye and I have tried this diet and it seems to work, and we never felt the need to 'break' the diet. If nothing else, it cuts down on the grocery bills.


ROLLAND AND DANIELLE POOTMANS have sent the following account of "LAST SUMMERS TRIP":

"We left Garanoque on July 13 and after lowering both masts, ventured into the canal system (Oswego/Erie Barge Canals). We did some very long days with up to 12 hours of engine operation. The canal staff was very courteous throughout, but we found locking thru upbound was very difficult for two people - but all went well. We remasted ourselves, after 3 long days in the canal system. The water is rather disgusting, especially near Utica/Rome. We remasted and dismasted at the Castleton Boat Club - good facilities but you use the shear leg at your own risk, with no help from the club (liability, but we got other sailors to help).

Two days later we were at Newport Marina, NJ., just across from the World Trade Center - a good starting point for Hell's Gate. Went through at slack water on a beautiful sunny day and then out into Long Island Sound, with an oil leak (getting worse) and finally a-sail!

Spent our first night on Long Island Sound anchored in Oyster Bay. I have a windlass and bow roller with 200'of chain, but usually pull it in by hand as the windlass is very slow!

Stopped in the Thimble Islands (lovely) and got towed in to Clinton. I found the oil leak to be the oil pressure sender unit, and overtightening it breaking it off flush with the block! I now have a set of extractors on board - however, I did have a spare sender! Then on to Mystic, Conn. and a super meal at 'Abbots in the Rough'.

Then on to Newport. A bit disappointing as little is left of sailing, outfitters, etc. Did sail up to Bristol and back. We will someday sail more of Narraganset Bay, I hope. Next stop - Cuttyhunk. What a pleasure to be away from hustle and bustle. We were now in an area where we spent many summers with the children - Cape Cod - spent e weeks in this area with Falmouth our favorite harbor on the Cape - everything is close by and moorings are $20.00 per night at MacDougall's.

Our favorite harbors? Nantucket, but expensive with moorings at $40.00 per night, but pleasant. The anchorage area is far from town, however, we do have an Avon with a 8HP motor which gets us around for exploring. The A-37's 5 1/2 - 6' draft is a problem on the South Shore of the Cape. We did manage to get a warning ticket for 'anchoring illegally' in the outer harbor, which was found taped to the drop boards on our return from visiting! Not a way to impress visitors, especially when they try to force you on moorings at $20 to $40 per night. Another favorite harbor was Vineyard Haven - lovely town and friendly people.

Then, feeling as if we had just left home, it was time to head homeward (August 20). We then proceeded to Block Island (another favorite) for three days. Our return west on the Sound saw winds on the nose at 20 to 25 knots which made rough going for a crew of two. We had no trouble sleeping that night upon arrival.

We learned one lesson that night, when the remnants of Hurricane Andrew blew by with winds of 45 knots, which blew some waves that splashed across the dock onto LANIKAI. The 115V power was plugged in with an extension, and the salt water in the joint caused the current to flow and melt the yellow rubber plugs (could have caused a fire). $75 later, I had replaced both the male and female plugs.

We then stayed at the Stuyvessant(?) Y.C. on City Island.

The Club was friendly, but we did not like City Island, but it is a good starting place for Hell's Gate. Through Hell's Gate at slack water - debated whether to go left or right in NY Harbor, then decided to go right as we had not planned to go south, but it was tempting.

The two of us alone dismasted Lanikai - all went well, but is must be done very early or late as you lie alongside the dock.

Three days in the canal system and we were once again on Lake Ontario on September 8.

We spent our last few days in the 1000 Islands reminiscing of a wonderful trip and when do we do it again! (another reason for repowering and getting the 5 yr. extended warranty)".

Thanks for sharing your adventure. Hope the next time won't be too far in the future.


New members, PETER and SUSAN BOYADJIAN (INIA) report that they completed a year long journey to the Florida Keys and back when they returned home to Ontario on 29 May 1992. Since they had no wish to cross the Gulf Stream and endure the high winds normally encountered in the islands, they did not venture to the Bahamas, but instead cruised the east and west coasts of Florida. They had a wonderfully interesting experience and a view of the U.S.A. that is only possible by cruising. Peter says that INIA appears unusual in that is has a 6'2" draft, and thus they cut a groove all the way down the ICW. Their trip went well except for engine accessory problems including replacement of the alternator and alternator bracket, thermostat, fuel pump, water pump, and prop shaft. (What type of engine?).

Peter, could you and Susan write an article regarding your cruise down the ICW, and your experiences of cruising in Florida, especially in light of the anchoring restrictions in some areas of Florida. We would feature it in a future issue of the newsletter.


We still plan to host a rendezvous on the Hampton Hall Branch of the Yeocomico River, near Kinsale Virginia over the Labor Day weekend. The details on how to get there by water (or by land) will be in the next issue. We don't have a home there yet, but have the most important items, a boat dock, electricity and running water. We plan to spend a lot of time there this summer.

Enough of this talk, we all need to get to the spring outfitting tasks at hand. Have a great spring. Lets hear from you soon.