ALBERG 37 CUTLESS BEARING AND SHAFT-LOG REPLACEMENT DISCUSSION


Original Message

 

Hit Counter Visits Since 10/01/2010

 

From: ALAIN REDDER

Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 4:27 PM
 Subject: Cutlass bearing for Alberg 37

I was hoping that some one might have some experience changing a cutlass bearing.
I was thinking that I might be able to avoid removing the prop shaft, by removing the propeller first then unbolting the cutlass bearing housing off the keel, ( held by 4 lag bolts). Then slide the housing off, press out the bearing, press a new one in then slide it back on the prop shaft
and rebolt on.
This is all assuming that I can get the prop off without removing the
rudder.
Any one have any ideas?
Thanks,
Alain Redder



REPLY


From: tom assenmacher
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 7:51 AM
To:Alain Redder
Subject: FW: [alberg-list] Cutlass bearing for Alberg 37

Alain,

 Since you have a MK-1, your's may be a bit different from the MK-II.  On the MK-ll at least, you can remove the prop without removing the rudder, but you may need to loosen up the quadrant to get enough throw on the rudder to get the prop off.  You should be able to remove the cutless bearing casting by removing the (4) bolts (2 bolts on the MK-II), but it may be difficult to remove if it has never been removed before.  Be aware that the shaft log (1-1/4" bronze pipe) is attached to the bearing casting.  That all should come out as a unit after disconnecting the stuffing box and hose.  The shaft log/cutless bearing is normally bedded in some sort of "bullet proof" bedding. At least it was on our MK-II when I first removed the assembly - had to use a pipe wrench to turn it and break the bedding compound. Also, be advised that the  shaft log (bronze pipe) is screwed into the bearing casting, so you might want to "tighten" the bearing housing when removing it, so that the shaft log and housing come out as a unit.  The first time we removed ours (about 15 years ago) was due to a leak in the shaft log itself, caused by electrolysis - a small pin hole immediately aft of the stuffing box hose.  During our recent re-engining, we replaced the shaft log again (probably didn't need it) since we had it all apart.  I've also heard of people leaving a 1/4" extension on the cutless bearing when replacing it whereby one can turn out the bearing with a pipe wrench.  You might also coat the new bearing with anti-seize compound when installing it, which may make subsequent removal easier.  Also, on the MK-II, the bearing casting attaching bolts are (were) simply screwed into the deadwood fiberglass.  During our re-engining of our boat, we embedded threaded inserts (316  SS screw anchors) into the deadwood, so they wouldn't strip out.  We also added a bonding zinc to the housing to keep electrolysis from attaching the mounting bolts.

 

 

Cutless Bearing Assembly

 

Cutless Bearing Assembly Showing Bonding Wire 
With Teardrop Zinc Attached To Hull

 

 

Of course all of the above applies to our 1975 MK-II which may or may not apply to your boat, but I would think most of it would apply.
Tom and Kaye Assenmacher
Alberg 37 International Owners Association
P.O. Box 32
Kinsale, VA 22488


REPLY II

 

From: ALAIN REDDER

Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 10:03 AM

To: tom assenmacher

Subject: Alain Redder, cutlass bearing

 

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the help, the bearing casting was out some 10 years ago when the engine was replaced( with a Perkins 4-108) so I don't think I will have any problems there. The only problem I see would be undoing the bronze shaft log from the stuffing box hose, as I will have to take apart some of the engine to get access back there. I have been able to just reach the stuffing box and I seem to remember the shaft log as being , or at least looking like it was made of a fiberglass tube (possibly in the new engine install). This I will examine as soon as the

weather warms up again. ( 12 degrees this morning!)

Do you remember what bedding compound you used for the shaft log when you reinstalled it?

Also in the photo you sent , the aperture for the prop looks bigger than mine, did you cut that out at one time or is that the mark II version? Thank you again for the help, I am feeling better about the task already! sincerely, Alain

 

REPLY III

 

From: tom assenmacher

Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:37 PM

To: 'ALAIN REDDER'

Subject: RE: Alain Redder, cutlass bearing

 

Alain,

Our original shaft log was red brass, and replaced it with a piece of 316 stainless steel pipe as we could not find a source for bronze tubing.

Anyway, we also slightly enlarged the prop aperture (about 3/4" top and bottom) to accommodate a slightly larger diameter prop (14 x 11) for the new engine. We had fair access to the rear of the engine through a cut-out in the starboard cockpit locker (I can crawl back to the rudder quadrant, but it's tight.

As I remember, I think I used polysulfide to bed the cutless bearing/shaft log. 5200 would work too, but would be a bit more difficult to remove.

tom