Over the last 22 years weve made a number of additions and modifications to our Alberg 37 sloop TEELOK. The following is a list of some of these changes:
We run amateur HF and VHF aboard. The antenna for HF is an insulated backstay while the antenna for the VHF is a top the RADAR mast located on the port quarter. Note, we use the same antenna for VHF Marine and VHF Amateur. In addition to SSB(HF), CW(HF), and FM(VHF), we also run both HF and VHF Amateur Packet. The HF Packet allows us access to the Internet (for Email) via an Amateur WinLink station.
The wires for the mast head anchor light were cut and run forward to the bow. Here I installed a deck connector (Canon Mil. Type) on the port side. I build two 12V anchor lights that can be attached to this connector. I also built a control circuit for the anchor lights that is mounted below. Thus, the lights come on at dusk and off at dawn. Note, there is a switch to bypass the circuit if needed. Regarding the reasoning for moving the anchor light, I felt I was more likely to run into by a small power boat than a large freighter.
I made up a bilge alarm to give a little warning of a rising (internal) tide. The sending unit is located below the house batteries and simply consists of two copper probes. When the water comes in contact with the probes, the circuit is complete and the alarm sounds.
We have three bilge pumps onboard two mechanical and one electric. In addition to the standard pump weve added a large Edson and a good size electric. The following is an explanation of the control system for the electric pump: There are two sensors (float switches) in the bilge. When the water level reaches the upper sensor, the water will start pumping. When the water level gets below the lower sensor, the pump turns off and resets itself. This arrangement keeps the pump from cycling in a seaway. The control circuit design is fairly simple.
The bar is used to keep the companionway from being opened while the crew is asleep. This is not something we use very often, but we do keep it aboard.
I found about 4 inches of space behind the paneling in the nav-station. Here I added a compartment with a door(following the design of the existing compartment doors) and this is where we keep the computer printer. The door serves as the table for the printer. Note, the laptop is stored in its own holder at seat level in the nav-station.
The pump for the deck/anchor wash is located in the Head under the sink. It pulls water through the head water intake. The circuit includes a solenoid to control power to the pump. Using the solenoid allowed me to control the pump from the companionway without running the heavy gauge wire to the companionway.
The diesel heater is a pot burner. It is fed from a PVC tank located on top of the hanging locker. The tank is filled from the main tank with a 12V. pump located in the hanging locker. The heater could have been run directly from the main tank, but with the small tank, I omitted the constant throbbing of the pump keeping up with demand.
The dink alarm consists of two parts. The control circuit is mounted behind the electrical panel in the main cabin with the sensor wiring running to the rear lazarette. The second part consists of a piece of braid(rope) with its core removed. The core I replaced with wire. When the later is fed through a D-ring on the dink and plugged into the lazarette plug, the circuit is complete and forms a continuous electrical loop. If the loop is broken/cut, the alarm sounds.
We are currently in the process of putting the finishing touches on a hard dodger for the TEELOK. With a little luck it should be finished up in the next few weeks.
I built two covers for the hatches and one for the companionway. The forward hatch cover consists of a triangular piece of heavy gauge nylon. The design allows me to dip the forward corner down when the driving rains are present. The companionway cover is used when we are going downwind in rain.. It replaces the companionway boards and basically consists of a piece of Sunbrella, a piece of oak that slides into the board slots and a couple battens to hold the shape.
I installed an Oak board to the starboard quarter. The Outboard fuel tank is secured to it.
The Hooker Rig (for those not familiar with the term) consists of an oil-less compressor, a tank to smooth out the air supply, a water filter, a delivery hose and a one stage regulator. The rig, less the
hose and regulator, are permanently mounted in the starboard lazarette. The system allows me to go over the side to clean the bottom/clear the prop with ease. The pump pressure allows us to go down about 60 feet, but we use it mostly to keep the bottom clear of slime and barnacles.
The mast is grounded through a DynaPlate located below the mast. Note, none of the through hulls or prop shaft are tied into the ground system. A separate ground exists for the RF radio ground.
Both the Jib Down Wind Pole and the Main Boom can be triangulated and held ridged. The Jip Pole is attached to a car which runs on a track on the front of the mast. The other end of the pole sets in a deck bracket. Setting the pole for downwind sailing is both quick and simple. The Mainsail Preventer is left in place alongside the boom and is also set quickly and easily.
The Man Overboard System consists of the LifeSling secured to the starboard quarter and a hoist line that remains in place. One end of the hoist line is attached to the top of the mast to a pad eye. the other end of the line has a single sheave block. Note this line terminates about six feet off the deck. A second line which consists of a carabiner hook at one end , runs from the base of the forward starboard gate stanchion(where it is hooked ready for use), through the block and back to a cam cleat located at the same gate stanchion. Note, there is a hook attached to the aft lower shroud. While stored ready for use, the second line is hooked under this hook. Once the man overboard is along side, the second line is flipped out of the cam cleat and the carabiner hook attached to man ready to come aboard. The end of the second line that was just flipped out of the cam cleat is brought back to the starboard sheet winch and the man comes aboard quickly and easily. The system is both, quick, easy, and most importantly simple. Note, the man is brought up through the center of the gate.
Ive installed a disconnect for all mast head wiring. This was done to try and eliminate damage from lightening. I know that this preventive measure would prove useless with a direct strike, but maybe it will help provide some protection during close strikes. So far so good.
Ive installed an oil change pump in the engine compartment. It makes changing oil on trips that much easier.
In addition to the gauges Ive installed alarms to signal for both low oil pressure and high water temperature.
Ive installed a prop isolator between the transmission and drive shaft flanges. The isolator was installed to eliminate the electrolysis that was eating up zincs on the shaft and to eliminate the DC ground to seawater. With the exception of the mast, there is no DC grounds to seawater (RF ground is through isolation capacitors).
The RADAR is a Raytheon R20 with the antenna mounted on a mast located on the port quarter.
Two large DynaPlates are located on the keel approximately below the nav-station. These plates are tied together and connected to the radios (located in the nav-station) and automatic tuner (located in the rear lazarette under the backstay) with 4" copper sheeting. Note, at the end of the sheeting at both locations are capacitors to eliminate a DC ground to seawater.
TEELOK is now equipped with slap reefing main and a ProFurl furling headsail.
The riding sail is hauled aloft with the main halyard. There are two attached sheets that run forward to and through the blocks on the short deck tracks. The lines are then brought back to the jib sheet winches and secured. TEELOK, as Im sure, all Alberg 37s, sail at anchor. The riding sail quiets her
right down the stronger the winds, the more effective the sail becomes. Note the riding sail takes the pressure off the anchor when the wind starts to howl.
When in open water and the swells are up or after dark , we get into harnesses and attach to one of two large padeyes in the cockpit. We keep a securing line on the boom and a second one on the deck.
We use the hand pump at the galley as a saltwater pump and as a back up to the freshwater electric pump. Ive added a "Y" valve to the engine intake through hull and this is the source for the saltwater tap.
I made oak framed screens for the two overhead hatches and the companionway.
The seawater temperature gauge consists of a Radio Shack indoor/outdoor temperature gauge. The outdoor sensor is held against the engine intake through hull using an electric wire terminal end (the sensor end slides into where the wire goes and the eye part is clamped down to the through hull with a hose clamp). Its cheap and it works.
We have two self steering systems on TEELOK. Under sail we use a Monitor Wind Vane and under power we use an AutoHelm.
Ive mounted a solar panel on the stern pulpit. It occupies the space between the pulpit and the back stay.
This idea I stole from SOLSKIN. It consists of a padeye on the starboard spreader which quiets the topping lift and a hook on the port side that quiets the spinnaker halyard. Since the spinnaker halyard
(which we use to raise and lower the inflatable overboard) needed a straight run from the mast head turning block (for the winch to work effectively), had to be a hook instead of a padeye.
The TV antenna consists basically of a dipole bent back on itself to form a circle. This I made from a piece of oak and a couple pieces of aluminum. Although the antenna isnt completely omni-directional, it comes fairly close. It goes aloft on the main halyard and is controlled from turning with a guide line around the topping lift.